Food & Beverage
Above: Harvest at Grandfather Vineyard & Winery; A pour at Souther Williams Vineyard
The Elevated Taste of North Carolina’s Western Area Wines
By Kim S. Davis
Those who grow up in North Carolina learn, beginning in fourth grade, about the geographic regions of our state and the role geography has played in the development of the “Old North State.” In all three regions, the Coastal Plain, the Piedmont, and the Mountains, agriculture has helped define our culture, with each region sustaining diverse crops. While climates and methods are unique, all three regions have hospitable traditions in common, including the belief that what comes from our land influences our concept of home.
One very noble agricultural pursuit that demonstrates that belief and unites our entire state is wine. Viticulture has long been an important part of our history, as America’s first known cultivated grapevine was recorded by European settlers in the Coastal Plain region in the late 1500s. By the early part of the twentieth century, North Carolina was the leading wine-producing region in the U.S. However, Prohibition and other influences impacted the growth of the industry and it was not until the early part of this century that viticulture was revitalized. Today, there are not only more than 250 wineries in the state, but North Carolina is now home to six American Viticultural Areas (AVAs).
To earn the illustrious designation as an AVA, a grape-growing area must have distinguishable characteristics in soil, elevations, and climates. It is a multi-year process to achieve approval for an AVA and involves a great deal of collaboration. Winemakers, county officials, consultants and wine experts complete extensive applications, compile elaborate documentation, host site visits, and work with local planning boards in hopes of ultimately receiving approval from the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the U.S. Department of the Treasury.
Wineries located in each of the designated AVAs share particular qualities specific to the place where the grapes are nurtured, and wines from within the specific AVAs are required to be made with grapes from that region. While each winery is unique, they are all influenced by the terroir of the AVA. Terroir refers to the flavors imparted by the environment on the crop, including farming practices, elevation, climate, and the make-up of the soil.
Interestingly, five of the six North Carolina American Viticulture Areas encompass part of the Mountain Region. The Haw River AVA includes wineries in the central Piedmont area, while the Upper Hiwassee Highlands AVA contains two counties in the far western part of NC as well as part of northern Georgia. The Yadkin Valley AVA, Swan Creek AVA, Appalachian High Country AVA and Crest of the Blue Ridge AVA either comprise or are adjacent to the Mountain Region, but are each unique and feature special environmental characteristics.
The first area in North Carolina to receive prestige as an American Viticulture Area was the Yadkin Valley AVA. Established in late 2002 and named after the nearby Yadkin River, this AVA is home to more than fifty wineries that take advantage of the moderate elevations and warmer temperatures, including Shelton Vineyards, the largest family owned vineyard on the East Coast. Additionally, the Yadkin Valley AVA is home to one of the most award-winning winemakers in the U.S., Mark Friszolowski of Childress Vineyards. With vast experience enticing great wines from the grapes grown in the region, Friszolowski noted in Wine Enthusiast that, “You can’t grow a wine region without camaraderie.” He not only helped the young Yadkin Valley AVA flourish during its early years, but he has been a trusted consulting winemaker in the other regional AVAs. Mr. Friszolowski explains that as NC Wines become more elevated, and wine drinkers become more knowledgeable, the AVA designations are becoming more important to consumers.
The Swan Creek AVA, a sub-appellation of the Yadkin Valley AVA, was the second area in NC to receive AVA designation. The specific microclimate supported by close proximity to the Brushy Mountains enhances the wines with grapes grown in nutrient and mineral-rich soil. Another
benefit of the process and collaboration in achieving an AVA is recognizing which grape varieties grow best in each area. Because of the water-holding capacity of the soil in these foothills, many Italian varieties flourish here. The scenic Tuscan-style winery of Raffaldini and the Italian-owned Piccione Vineyards showcase the terroir of this region in their Italian-inspired wines.
Continuing west, the Blue Ridge Mountain chain, a part of the Appalachian Mountain Range, separates the Piedmont from the Mountain Region. The Appalachian High Country AVA is influenced by the higher elevations of the mountain range and the steeper slopes of the vineyards. This large AVA includes eight counties in three states: North Carolina, northeast Tennessee, and southwest Virginia. Vineyards in this AVA are planted on steeper slopes (many at 30 degrees or more) and at elevations between 2,290 and 4,630 feet above sea level. The shorter growing season and challenges of a harsher environment impart character in the grapes that comes through in the wines of this area.
Established in 2016, the Appalachian High Country AVA came about through the dedication of the High Country Wine Growers Association, farmers, vineyard owners, community leaders and members of Appalachian State University. The process was spearheaded by Johnnie James of Bethel Valley Farms and strongly supported by Steve and Dylan Tatum (Grandfather Vineyard and Winery), Jack Wiseman (Linville Falls Winery), Professor Jeff Colby (Appalachian State), and Bianca Temple (an App State Graduate Student). According to Grandfather Vineyard’s Steve Tatum, the application was accepted after the first submission (a very rare occurrence) because of the determination of this group. Tatum says that he is proud to be a part of the Appalachian High Country AVA because, “it delineates where the grapes originated and distinguishes the grapes grown here from other AVAs.”
The newest North Carolina AVA designation is the Crest of the Blue Ridge AVA, which is split by the Eastern Continental Divide and includes the entirety of Henderson County. Over 125 acres of vineyards are planted with more planned in the next several years. There are currently eight wineries in the Crest of the Blue Ridge AVA with an additional winery expected to open soon.
Wineries in this region are part of a close knit community and have unique stories as to how they evolved. According to Kenneth Parker, owner of Souther Williams Vineyard, “The wines from the Crest of the Blue Ridge AVA are influenced by the minerality of the loamy soils of the Blue Ridge Plateau, and are also affected by previous crops and apple orchards that dominated the region.” Many of these grapevines are relatively new but are already producing delicious wines. Souther Williams Vineyards, for example, evolved from family land that in 1800 began as a sustenance farm. The land has been in Mr. Parker’s family for seven generations and in 2016 he began planting grapes. This picturesque family-run winery has expanded over the past decade, and through their award-winning wines they showcase a deep love of the land.
Those who enjoy wines and seek to discover distinct flavors inspired by the characteristics of the place where the vineyards flourish are fortunate to have so many delightful and scenic options close-by. Over the past twenty years, the qualities of NC wines (and those in northeast TN and southwest VA) have evolved because of increased knowledge of both the industry and consumers, improvements in crop selection and management, and the leadership and collaboration of the NC Wine Growers Association.
Wine lovers are reaping the benefits.
For more information on North Carolina’s wine producers, trails and events, visit ncwine.org.
Wineries Located in Proximity to the High Country:
Appalachian High Country AVA
- Banner Elk Winery, Banner Elk, NC
- Grandfather Vineyard and Winery, Banner Elk, NC
- Linville Falls Winery, Linville Falls, NC
- Old Barn Winery, West Jefferson, NC
- DelMonaco Winery and Vineyards, Baxter, TN
- Delta Blues Winery, Lakeland, TN
- Villa Nove Vineyards, Butler, TN
- Crest of the Blue Ridge AVA
- Burntshirt Vineyards, Hendersonville, NC
- Marked Tree Vineyard, Flat Rock, NC
- Johnson’s Legacy Vineyard, Hendersonville, NC
- Point Lookout Vineyards, Hendersonville, NC
- Saint Paul Mountain Vineyards, Hendersonville, NC
- Sawyer Springs Vineyard, Hendersonville, NC
- Souther Williams Vineyard, Fletcher, NC
- Stone Ashe Vineyard, Hendersonville, NC
Swan Creek AVA
- Castello Barone Vineyards and Winery, Ronda NC
- Chateau Jourdain LLC, Jonesville, NC
- Dobbins Creek Vineyards, Hamptonville, NC
- Dynamis Estate Wines, Jonesville, NC
- Laurel Gray Vineyards, Hamptonville, NC
- Midnight Magdalena Vineyards, Jonesville, NC
- Piccione Vineyards, Ronda, NC
- Raffaldini Vineyards and Winery, Ronda, NC
- Shadow Springs Vineyard, Hamptonville, NC
- Sotrio Vineyards and Winery, Ronda, NC
- Windsor Run Cellars, Hamptonville, NC
Yadkin Valley AVA
- Adagio Vineyards and Winery, Elkin, NC
- Brandon Hills Vineyard, Yadkinville, NC
- Carolina Heritage Vineyard and Winery, Elkin, NC
- Celler 4201, East Bend, NC
- Childress Vineyards, Lexington, NC
- Christian Paul Vineyards, Elkin, NC
- Curran Alexander Vineyards, Lexington, NC
- Divine Llama Vineyards, East Bend, NC
- Elkin Creek Vineyards, Elkin, NC
- Golden Road Vineyards, State Road, NC
- Grassy Creek Vineyard and Winery, State Road, NC
- Hanover Park Vineyard, Yadkinville, NC
- Haze Gray Vineyards, Dobson, NC
- Hidden Vineyard, Dobson, NC
- JOLO Winery and Vineyards, Pilot Mountain, NC
- Jones von Drehle Vineyards and Winery, Thurmond, NC
- Junius Lindsay Vineyard, Lexington, NC
- Lazy Elm Vineyard and Winery, Mocksville, NC
- Medaloni Cellars, Lewisville, NC
- Native Vines Winery, Lexington, NC
- RagApple Lassie Vineyards, Boonville, NC
- Rayson Winery and Vineyards, Mocksville, NC
- Roaring River Vineyards, Traphill, NC
- Round Peak Vineyards, Mount Airy, NC
- Sanders Ridge Vineyard and Winery, Boonville, NC
- Shelton Vineyards, Dobson, NC
- Stony Knoll Vineyards, Dobson, NC
- Weathervane Winery, Lexington, NC
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From the CML Kitchen…
By Meagan Goheen
Firecracker Shrimp Dip
INGREDIENTS
- 1 TBSP butter
- 3 TBSP extra virgin olive oil (divided)
- 1 LB shrimp; raw, deveined and de-tailed
- 1 tsp salt
- ½ tsp fresh ground black pepper
- 1 tsp crushed red pepper (more or less to taste)
- 1 large shallot diced
- 2 garlic cloves minced; 1 whole clove for crostini
- 1/3 cup dry white wine
- 8 oz cream cheese, softened
- ½ cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
DIRECTIONS
Garlic Crostini:
Slice the French bread.
Drizzle with 2 Tablespoons of olive oil and bake at 400 degrees for 8-10 minutes or until toasted.
Rub crostini with a raw piece of garlic.
Shrimp Dip:
Heat a medium sauté pan to medium high heat and add 1 TBSP of butter and 1 TBSP of olive oil.
Pat shrimp dry and season with salt, pepper, and crushed red pepper.
Sauté shrimp for about 5 minutes until cooked through and remove from pan.
To the same pan add shallots and garlic and sauté for 1-2 minutes.
Deglaze with white wine and cook down for about 2 minutes.
Add cream cheese and stir to combine.
Chop shrimp into bitesize pieces and add to mixture.
Pour into an oven safe dish, top with parmesan cheese and bake with crostini for about 10-15 minutes.
Optional: top with sliced green onions to serve.
*Can also be served cold